Things to do in Cilaos, Réunion: thermal baths, lentils and hikes

What is there to do in Cilaos, the cirque in the south of Réunion? Drive the road of 400 bends, taste the cirque's lentils and wine, unwind at the thermal baths, admire the local embroidery and set off hiking towards the Piton des Neiges. Here is everything you need for a successful stay in Cilaos, whether for a day or several nights.

How do you get to Cilaos on the road of 400 bends?

Cilaos is reached via the RN5, starting from Saint-Louis on the south coast. The road climbs the bed of the Bras de Cilaos river for some thirty kilometres, through tunnels cut into the rock, over narrow bridges and around tight hairpins: it is nicknamed “the road of 400 bends”. Work began in 1927 and it opened in 1932, according to the town's history.

A few tips for the drive:

• allow about an hour from Saint-Louis, more if traffic is heavy;
• sound your horn before blind bends, as the regulars do;
• avoid the climb after heavy rain and during cyclone alerts: the road may be closed because of rockfalls;
• if you suffer from motion sickness, plan stops at the viewpoints.

Once at the top, the village of Cilaos spreads out at 1,214 metres above sea level, at the foot of the ramparts (the cirque's cliff walls). The name is said to come from Malagasy and to suggest a place “you never leave”; other historians see in it the name of a maroon (runaway) slave, Tsilaos. To place the cirque alongside its neighbours Mafate and Salazie, see our page on the cirques of Réunion.

What to do in Cilaos in a day?

If you are wondering what to do in Cilaos in just a few hours, set off early: clouds often fill the cirque in the afternoon.

1. Stroll around the village: the church, colourful Creole houses (cases créoles), flower-filled gardens and small shops selling local produce.
2. Head up to the Roche Merveilleuse: this viewpoint, reachable by car or by a forest trail, offers one of the finest views of the cirque and the Piton des Neiges.
3. Walk to the Bassin Bleu: a short hike to the Bassin Bleu in Cilaos, perfect for a morning.
4. Have a lentil carri (Creole curry) for lunch and finish with a look round the embroidery shops.
5. On Sunday morning, don't miss the Cilaos market, where the cirque's growers sell lentils, fruit and crafts.

Cilaos also holds a world record: 1.87 metres of rain fell there in a single day in 1952. A reminder that the weather in the Hauts (the island's uplands) changes fast and that you should always bring a jacket.

The thermal baths of Cilaos, a hot-water story

Cilaos owes part of its fame to its hot springs, discovered in 1819 according to the French Ministry of Culture. In the 19th century, the island's well-to-do families came up to the cirque to “take the waters”. The doctor Jean-Marie Mac-Auliffe is associated with the creation of the first spa establishment.

Today, the Irénée Accot thermal establishment, on the road to Bras-Sec, bears the name of the town's first mayor. It offers thermal treatments and relaxation services, ideal after a long hike. Check opening times and access conditions before you go.

Lentils, wine and embroidery: the treasures of Cilaos

Cilaos is also a terroir unlike any other on Réunion.

Cilaos lentils

Grown mainly at Îlet à Cordes since the 1850s, Cilaos lentils are small, full of flavour and highly sought after. Production remains modest: around 100 tonnes in 2015. They are eaten in a carri, in a rougail (spicy Creole relish) or simply slow-cooked, and they make a popular souvenir.

Cilaos wine

The cirque is one of the few places on the island where wine is made, in red, rosé and white. After the Isabelle grape variety was banned in 1975, CIRAD (the French agricultural research centre) supported the planting of noble varieties such as chenin, malbec and pinot noir, on some twenty hectares.

Cilaos embroidery

The “jours de Cilaos” are a fine openwork embroidery, attributed to Angèle Mac-Auliffe, the daughter of the spa doctor. Handed down from generation to generation, this craft is the pride of the cirque: tablecloths, doilies and handkerchiefs can be found in the village shops.

Hiking: what to do in Cilaos on foot?

Cilaos is an ideal base camp for hikers. Here are a few classics, from the easiest to the most demanding:

• The Bassin Bleu: a short family outing starting from the village.
• The Roche Merveilleuse: a forest loop with a botanical trail.
• The Bras Rouge waterfall: a descent through the ravines to a spectacular waterfall, for experienced walkers only (see the Bras Rouge page).
• The Col du Taïbit: the gateway to Mafate, the cirque with no road; our guide to Mafate covers its îlets (hamlets) and gîtes.
• The Piton des Neiges: the roof of the Indian Ocean, at 3,070 metres. The climb from Le Bloc, with a night at the refuge, is a highlight; find our tips for the Piton des Neiges at sunrise and the Piton des Neiges hike page.

Trails may be closed after heavy rain or during the cyclone season. Always check that they are open with the ONF (French National Forests Office) or the tourist office before setting off.

Where to stay in Cilaos and when to go?

To really enjoy the cirque, spend at least one night there. The village has hotels, gîtes and guesthouses, and the neighbouring îlets of Bras-Sec and Palmiste Rouge offer a quieter atmosphere. Our page on the town of Cilaos gathers the practical information.

The dry season, from May to November, is the most pleasant time for hiking: clearer skies, dry trails, but cool nights, even cold ones in the southern winter. In the southern summer it is milder, but rain is more frequent, especially in the afternoon.

To plan your visit to Cilaos and discover the other cirques, download the Nout Péi app or explore our place and hike guides.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to drive up to Cilaos?

Allow about an hour from Saint-Louis on the RN5, the famous road of 400 bends. Allow more in heavy traffic, during roadworks or if you stop at the viewpoints.

What to do in Cilaos when it rains?

Enjoy the thermal baths, browse the embroidery shops and taste the cirque's lentils and wine in the village restaurants. Avoid hikes and ravines, however, as they are dangerous in wet weather.

Can you visit Cilaos as a day trip?

Yes, the return trip from the coast can be done in a day, provided you leave early. To hike or climb the Piton des Neiges, though, it is better to spend at least one night there.