Mafate, Réunion’s roadless cirque: access, îlets and gîtes

Mafate is the only one of Réunion’s three cirques (natural amphitheatres) that no road enters: you get in on foot, along mountain trails, or by helicopter. Its inhabited îlets (hamlets), its gîtes and its landscapes of ramparts (cliff walls) make it the island’s most legendary hiking destination. Here is how to get there, which îlets to choose and how to organise your stay.

What is the Cirque de Mafate?

Mafate is one of the three cirques formed around the Piton des Neiges, along with Cilaos and Salazie. According to Wikipedia, it forms an oval of about 14 km from north to south and 7 km from east to west, with altitudes ranging from around 250 metres, at the Deux-Bras confluence, to more than 2,900 metres on the ridges of the Gros Morne. The cirque is shared between two municipalities: La Possession, on the right bank of the Rivière des Galets, and Saint-Paul, on the left bank.

A few hundred inhabitants, the Mafatais, live there all year round in small hamlets called îlets. The cirque lies in the inhabited core of Réunion National Park and is part of the “Pitons, cirques and ramparts” property, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010.

Where does the name Mafate come from?

The cirque took its name from the îlet of Mafate, once home to a small spa. Several explanations circulate: the name is associated with a legendary maroon chief, popularised in the 19th century by the writer Eugène Dayot, and it is often linked to the Malagasy word mahafaty, “that which kills”. Before it was called this, the cirque was known as the cirque of the Rivière des Galets or of Aurère.

This history is a reminder that the cirque’s first occupants were runaway slaves (maroons), who came looking for freedom in this hard-to-reach terrain. To learn more, read our article on marronage in Réunion.

How do you get to Mafate?

No road enters the cirque. Several gateways, however, let you walk down into it, each with its own character.

Via the Col des Bœufs, from Salazie

This is the busiest and easiest way in. From the Col des Bœufs car park, above Salazie, a trail descends to La Nouvelle, the largest îlet in the cirque. The car park is guarded and charges a fee. Our Col des Bœufs to La Nouvelle hike page details the route.

Via the Maïdo, from the west

From the Maïdo viewpoint, a steep trail plunges down to Roche Plate, at the foot of the ramparts. The descent is spectacular, but the climb back up is demanding: you need to be in good physical shape. See the Maïdo to Mafate hike page.

Via the Col du Taïbit, from Cilaos

The Col du Taïbit links Cilaos with Marla, the highest îlet in the cirque. It is the classic route for hikers linking up the cirques. Details on the Col du Taïbit hike page.

Via the Rivière des Galets and Dos d’Âne

From the west coast, you can walk up the bed of the Rivière des Galets to Deux-Bras, or descend from Dos d’Âne to Aurère and Îlet à Malheur. These areas are exposed to floods and rockfalls: the ONF (French National Forests Office), for example, temporarily closed the trail from Dos d’Âne to Deux-Bras in February 2026 after a rockfall.

Finally, the helicopter is mainly used for supplies, rescues and taking away rubbish. It lets you fly over the cirque, but discovering the cirque is done on foot.

The îlets of Mafate to discover

Each îlet has its own atmosphere. The main ones, according to Wikipedia:

• La Possession side: La Nouvelle, often described as the cirque’s “capital”, Grand Place, Cayenne, Îlet à Bourse, Îlet à Malheur and Aurère.
• Saint-Paul side: Marla, at the foot of the Col du Taïbit, Roche Plate, Îlet des Orangers and Îlet des Lataniers.

For a first visit, La Nouvelle is the most accessible îlet. For a wilder immersion, Marla, Roche Plate or Aurère offer striking panoramas of the ramparts. Several primary schools operate in the cirque; secondary school pupils, however, live with host families on the coast during the week.

Where to stay in Mafate

According to Wikipedia, the cirque has nearly fifty walkers’ gîtes, most of them run by local families. You sleep in a dormitory or a private room, and dinner, often a carri (Creole curry) cooked over a wood fire, is served at the table d’hôte.

A few tips for your stay:

1. Book ahead, especially during school holidays and at weekends: camping is regulated in the core of the National Park.
2. Bring cash, as card payment is not always possible and there are no cash machines.
3. Save water and energy: electricity comes from solar panels and generators, and water is drawn from springs.
4. Take your rubbish home: everything that enters the cirque must leave it, and waste is removed by helicopter.

Compare the island’s accommodation, including some of the cirque’s gîtes, in our where to stay section.

When to go to Mafate and how to prepare

The best period runs from May to November, during the drier, cooler southern winter. The southern summer, from December to April, brings heavy rain and cyclones: trails may then be closed for several weeks. Before setting off, always check trail conditions with the ONF and the weather, and visit the Réunion National Park website.

In your bag: good hiking boots, a rain jacket, a fleece for cool evenings, a head torch, a first-aid kit, at least two litres of water and snacks. Phone signal is weak or non-existent across much of the cirque. Set off early in the morning, as clouds often engulf the ramparts in the early afternoon.

To combine this trip with the other cirques, see our page on Réunion’s cirques and our guide to things to do in Cilaos. These routes and gîtes are also at your fingertips in the Nout Péi app: download it before you go, it even works without signal.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drive to Mafate?

No, no road enters the cirque. You can only get there on foot, by the trails from the Col des Bœufs, the Maïdo, the Col du Taïbit, Dos d’Âne or the Rivière des Galets. The helicopter is reserved for supplies, rescues and sightseeing flights.

What is the easiest way into Mafate?

The Col des Bœufs trail, above Salazie, is the busiest and easiest way in. It descends to La Nouvelle, the largest îlet in the cirque. The climb back up still requires good physical fitness.

How many days should you allow to visit Mafate?

A day trip there and back to La Nouvelle is possible for fit walkers. To really discover the cirque, plan at least one night in a gîte, and ideally two to four days to link several îlets.